Reid's Palace, A Belmond Hotel, Madeira
What convinced us is the sheer weight of history behind the pink façade: Scotsman William...
Les Suites at the Cliff Bay occupies a 6,000 square-metre promontory on the Estrada Monumental, built between two early twentieth-century colonial houses rather than raised as a single new block. PortoBay's intent, carried through from the design brief, was a hotel that reads as a home: twenty-three suites, each with Atlantic views, arranged so that nine open directly onto private gardens on the ground floor. The marketing line is "the feeling of infinity," and it is earned less by any one feature than by the sense of calm that comes from a property built at a domestic scale, one suite deep, rather than stacked into towers of standard rooms.
Scale is the whole argument here: twenty-three suites, never more, each with a genuine sea view and a layout closer to a private apartment than a hotel room. The kitchen answers to the 1900 Restaurant, Lounge & Terrace Bar, set in one of the colonial houses with its own street access, and an interior corridor connects guests to the neighbouring Cliff Bay's saltwater pool, spa and gardens, plus Il Gallo d'Oro, the only two-Michelin-star restaurant on the island. A 9.50 out of 10 score across 98 reviews is modest in volume next to the big resort hotels, which fits a property built to stay intimate rather than scale up.
The Estrada Monumental is Funchal's established hotel corridor, a short drive west of the historic centre and the marina, lined with gardens and sea-facing terraces rather than shops or nightlife. It suits a traveller who wants quiet, direct Atlantic views and a short walk to a cluster of other serious hotels and restaurants, over one who wants to step straight into the old town. The promontory setting gives the suites genuine separation from the road noise that affects some of the strip's older properties, and the solarium and outdoor pool face the ocean rather than the street.
Price: Luxe
Vibe: discreet, residential, five-star
Rooms: 23 suites, including a 123 m² Exclusive Master Suite with two bedrooms and a kitchenette
Best For: couples and travellers who want five-star Funchal at a domestic scale
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: the interior corridor linking straight into The Cliff Bay's spa, saltwater pool and two-Michelin-star restaurant
Dining: the 1900 Restaurant, Lounge & Terrace Bar, chef Benoît Sinthon
Amenities: outdoor pool, solarium, fitness room, pilates room, library, cinema room
Attractions: Estrada Monumental hotel strip, Funchal historic centre, the marina
Most of the twenty-three suites run to 61 square metres plus a balcony, generous by Funchal standards, with nine on the ground floor opening directly onto private garden plots rather than a shared terrace. At the top end, the Exclusive Master Suite spreads across 123 square metres in the colonial house itself, with two bedrooms and a kitchenette, built for a family or two couples travelling together without giving up the privacy that defines the whole property. The smaller Artistic Suite, on the top floor with its own balconies, trades floor space for the best angle on the bay.
The clearest advantage of staying at Les Suites is what it is not required to build itself: an interior corridor connects directly to The Cliff Bay, PortoBay's flagship next door, putting its sea access, indoor and outdoor pools, full spa and gardens within an unhurried walk rather than a taxi ride. Dinner can mean the 1900 Restaurant at home, or a reservation at Il Gallo d'Oro, the only restaurant in Madeira to hold two Michelin stars, without changing hotels. It is this arrangement, a small, residential property with a full five-star resort attached, that gives Les Suites its particular value for a traveller who wants both privacy and scale on the same stay.